SIX best pousadas
Portugal’s pousadas may be run by the State, rather like Spain’s paradors, but they certainly don’t give that impression.
Each of these individual places to stay
reflects the character of the local region, through its architecture
or food, or is housed in a restored historic building. Despite the
often glamorous surroundings and excellent regional restaurants,
staying in a pousada is remarkably good value and offer a perfect
base for exploring Portugal’s unspoilt north.
Murtosa/Torreira, Ria
This pousada, a luxurious modern waterside
villa, would not be out of place in the swanky coastal belt of New
England, thanks to its sea-inspired décor. Fish motifs pop up
everywhere, from the room number plates to the lampshades while the
furniture has the sun- and sea-bleached look of driftwood. The
sun terrace overlooks a lagoon, with the city of Aveiro on the
opposite shore, and you can sunbathe, eat or drink here while you
watch the traditional moliceiro boats, garishly bright in the
Portuguese sun, as they ply the calm waters.
In the evenings, retreat to the brown
slate-walled bar and try one of 18 different types of port.
Tel +351 234 86 01 80. Doubles from 92 euro (B&B).
Guimarães, Santa Marinha
A former Augustine convent, the Santa Marinha
is one of two pousadas in this, the first capital of medieval
Portugal.
Blue, yellow and white azulejos, traditional Portuguese tiles,
decorate many of its walls with one central stairway featuring a
huge mural of a battle that took place in the city.
The old wing, recently renovated, is the best
place to stay. Here, each double room is formed from two former
prayer cells and still retain some of the original features,
including stone benches set into the walls.
To the rear lies a tranquil garden where moss-edged stone steps lead
to a secluded pond that is the perfect place to dip into a novel.
Tel +351 253 51 12 49. Doubles from 112 euro (B&B).
Gerês/Caniçada, São Bento
The Peneda-Gerês National Park feels more
Alpine than Portuguese and the Swiss chalet design of this pousada
matches this perfectly. It was originally built as a weekend retreat
for a rich businessman so he could go fishing in the nearby lake,
which brims with trout, carp and pike. The restaurant, where you can
try these fish for around 15 euro a dish, feels almost Moroccan with
copper lamps hovering over stout oak tables.
There are just 29 rooms, many with the
traditional vaulted Madeira ceilings, but only ten have the
all-important balcony. If you can’t get a view from your room, there
is always the high-ceilinged lounge bar or, if the weather permits,
a sunny terrace.
Tel +351 253 64 91 50. Doubles from 92 euro (B&B).
Amares, Santa Maria do Bouro
The industrial chic interior of this historic
pousada, reminiscent of New York’s Soho Grand, appears shocking next
to the 12th century monastic exterior but the minimalism would
probably have felt quite homely to its former Cistercian residents.
The restaurant – the monk’s kitchen - has changed little since the
12th century. You serve yourself breakfast and lunch from a vast
table hewn from a single lump of stone that used to serve as a
chopping block.
The area is known for its oranges and an orange tree with some
rather unusual fruit can be found in the cloisters next to the open
water channel that burbles through the centre of the hotel.
Tel +351 253 37 19 71. Doubles from 112 euro (B&B).
Viana do Castelo, Monte de Santa Luzia
A twisting road takes you to the summit of the
Monte de Santa Luzia in the Atlantic coastal city of Viana do
Castelo. This pousada was built as a hotel in 1918 and only
transformed into a regional pousada a few years ago. While this
means the size and décor seem less friendly than other pousadas, it
has a superb location, overlooking the Lima river and the ocean
beaches of Cabedelo. Completing the view is the 15th century domed
temple of Santa Luzia. The
restaurant is a little formal but the regional menu is far from it,
with local warming dishes such as hake gratin and sweet torta de
Viana pancakes.
Tel +351 258 80 03 70. Doubles from 97 euro (B&B).
Vila Nova de Cerveira, D. Diniz
Here an entire 13th century hamlet, complete
with church, manor house and outbuildings, rather than a single
building has been transformed into a quiet and comfortable pousada.
The rooms are large and are decorated in a rustic style, with deep
red tiled floors, heavy wood furniture and blue and white tiling.
Some rooms have private suntrap courtyards. The
only modern addition has been the restaurant, from where you can
watch swallows flitting above the Minho river as the sun sets over
the Spanish region of Galicia on the opposite bank.
Tel +351 251 70 81 20. Doubles from 92 euro (B&B).
For more information, visit
www.pousadas.com.